After 2 hours of single-lane Nebraskan farm roads, snaking through herds of prime beef that supply 1 in every 5 steaks sold in the US, I am told by the gas station attendant: “Turn past the next lot, drive to mile marker 55, look for a sand dusted road, turn right and go another 2 miles .” That is where I find Sand Hills Golf Club in Mullen, Nebraska – population 491.
The Chef. Charles Hartz was expecting me as I had arranged in advance to spend a couple of minutes with the cookbook author and 12 year Executive Chef at SHGC. As it turned out, the few minutes turned into a couple of hours discussing culinary philosophy, food experiences and the general mis en place and operations of the entire facility.
Early on in his journey, Charles took a methodical approach to realizing his passion. From profiling every US culinary school before selecting Western Culinary Institute, to pursuing positions like the entry-level position at DC Ranch in Scottsdale, where he could be under an experienced chef’s tutelage. Setting specific goals across the spectrum of disciplines, Charles has honed the skills required to be a successful Executive Chef. This shows today not only in his innovation in the kitchen (both at home and at SHGC), but also in his specialty spices, ice carving, and catering business.
As I read his inscription to me in his cookbook (“Randy, always cook from the heart”) and the quote by Virginia Woolf he included as a final word (“One cannot think well, love well, sleep well if one has not dined well”) – I realized this was the motivation and fuel that will continue to drive Executive Chef Charles Hartz successes.
- Ice Sculpture and Line of Spices - www.icechef.com
- Sand Hills Kitchen - www.sandhillskitchen.com
The Food. I first walked into the narrow galley kitchen too small to fit a walk-in cooler, but quickly realized the size of the kitchen was only bound by the limitations of the chef. This was as grand as it needed to be.
While the theme of the menu is apropos for a Midwest, cattle country, mostly male membership golf club, Charles still infuses his creativity and challenges the dishes without violating them.
· Pasta with beef tenderloin tips sautéed with wild mushrooms, leeks, roasted garlic, sun dried tomatoes, lemon and fresh rosemary in aged balsamic sauce over penne, topped with Asiago and extra virgin olive oil.
· Salmon filet infused with fresh orange juice, thyme, smoked paprika and extra virgin olive oil – oven roasted and served with caramelized onion/roasted pepper chutney.
Among his personal favorites that express the quality and simplicity of the ingredients are:
· New Zealand green lip mussels and cherrystone clams. Simply steamed with smoked saffron vinaigrette with garlic, fresh leeks, sun dried tomatoes and lemon, with a crusty grilled chunk of ciabatta.
· Nebraska CAB (Certified Angus Beef) ribeye, dusted with his own rub, grilled medium rare to a crust outside and topped with mind-blowingly fresh heirloom tomatoes.
The Course. As I incredulously turned onto the sand laden entry way earlier that day, with nothing but dunes of native grass and natural sand bunkers as far as the eye could see, there was ne’er a golf course, clubhouse or golfer in sight for miles. That is until I crested the final hill, where the 9th rated golf course in the country revealed herself to me. Now I get why designers Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw hold to a philosophy that golf courses are discovered, not created.
No earth was moved to create the 18-hole track. The layouts were visualized by standing on what Charles told me was “tire-iron hill”, a high point on the course where Ben found an old tire iron sticking in the ground, which is now displayed behind the bar. They identified 130 different possible hole layouts and selected the best 18 in the 8,000 acre track.
The overarching success of the consistently lush course conditions is the Ogallala aquifer, where pure water is abundant and is distributed by 900 water sprinklers installed across the course, and powered by by two huge diesel pumps (located in the operations area that also houses Charles' walk-in coolers.) In fact, 85% of the entire course construction costs was the initial installation of the sprinkler system, leaving only the ongoing price of diesel fuel to power the pumps.
The other critical success factor is the unique shape of the grains of sand. At Sand Hills, the entire course is comprised of a uniquely round sand, delivering perfect drainage, making the cost of each green is around $300, yet equal quality to those found at all high caliber courses. Most USGA greens have this type of sand imported to allow for the percolation required for proper drainage and foundation, costing about $40,000 per green. To be clear, the cost of the greens should not be indicative of quality, this is the # 9 course in the country after all. For you greens-keeper-wanna-be’s out there, the greens are Providence 1019 bentgrass and the fairways are a blend of four different fine-blade fescues.
While the naturally occurring bunkers are covered in hay during the winter, wind erosion is still an inevitability that adds additional mystique and character as the bunkers will “move” slightly from year to year.
While I have not yet played SHGC, I am looking forward to a great meal after a round of golf, followed by a cigar and a single malt on the patio under the Nebraska star-filled sky.